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That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. That is the first thing you must find. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Earl's Mechanical Fuel Pressure GaugeI could use that for a quick troubleshooting for 1/3rd the cost of the Holley one. Thanks, That is an strange situation. Im thinking a faulty TPS. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. Did you find this enlightening? If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. Tried that and it didn't work? From herethe cycle continues and I am I guess we can't have everything. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. Hello Chris. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an I think that your timing is too retarded. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. If more info is needed just ask. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Hello If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. You advise would be greatly appreciated. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. I have not heard of this. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? Am I missing something. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. One of them might be faulty. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. It could be a couple of things. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. Thanks so much for reading! My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. :-). Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. These problems will go away when you do that. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Your task will be to find that. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Let's start by not assuming anything. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. The window you saw in the image above pops up. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Reducing that a bit will help. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Did your process to adjust idle to 860. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. So you installed your Holley Sniper. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. When I shut it off then start it Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Car was running great initially. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Try it! I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. Then it started behaving oddly. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. That is the IAC hold position. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. Pw. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Going back to what you said. I did notice that when I thought I had it set You could go either way.. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. check out the. Without it you are working in the dark. Also if I give it a Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. TPS 0. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Okay, try my method. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. We do that but most places don't. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. Thanks for the info Chris. any ideas? Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. TPS% = 1 Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. ps. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Part# 538-13. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. I had this same exact issue. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Thanks for your very detailed question! I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. The problem was RF interferance . About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. It's all part of the adventure! The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress!